Getting here was a nightmare, but the clean white powder sand, and 2500 km of vast, unspoiled and empty coastline turned out to be the best reward. Tofu, a fishermen coastal village is so much different from the dirty, crowded capital of Maputo. And the famous diving with Manta Rays! When I first saw the Manta Ray above me, I thought it was boat. These monsters can be up to 7m wide! They usually slowly cruise around in small groups, with dozens of suckers glued underneath each one. Despite the poor visibility (the surge was very strong after a week of storm) it was worth the time and effort we spent to get there.
Indeed, the national road north-south N1 in many parts is a river red mud, asphalt is non-existant. From Tofu to Zavora, for instance, it took us almost 5 hours drive over a distance of 60 km. Although there are many major cities along the road N1 is almost free of traffic. The reason for that is that hardly any local person can afford a car. Most of the vehicles in the country are small vans for public transport. Once in our high school we played a game ‘how many people can fit in ‘maluch’ (a small car very popular in Poland)’; here it is an everyday reality. The capacity of any bus is tripled. With backpacks on our laps, squeezed between the chickens and babies, we’re lucky to be glued to the window and enjoy a small breeze (sometimes it’s sooo stinky, uh).
People in Mozambique lead a very simple unadventurous life. The objective is not to starve. If this need at some point of the day is satisfied, the rest of the time is spent on doing nothing.
There is little intentional agriculture practiced. The products sold at the market, as well as the basic diet of the locals consists of what the earth is willing to offer. Close to Maputo they sell on the streets nothing but mandarins, bananas and cashews coming from the nearby wild trees. A bit further north, pineapples appear and become the basic component of our diet. Fortunately, at the very coast you can also get loads of tasty barracudas!
The houses of Mozambicans are simple round huts that can be constructed during half of the day from the local materials, bamboo skeleton, grass thatched walls and roof. Similary easily, these houses can be swept away from the ground with a harder wind blow. The countryside usually lacks electricity and running water. A very common sight at N1 at dusk is women and children carrying on their heads bundles of wood and water containers.
Men rarely do the ‘carrying work’. Neither are they seen taking care of the numerous children of the family. Moreover, it is only women who sell and trade at the market, thus earn money and food. Sometimes. So what are the men’s duties, except for driving the few buses existing in the country? Probably reproduction! (added by maciek).
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